yawor

What remote are you trying to use with Flirc? I would also test with a different remote. If you use an universal remote you can try different setup codes or device profiles.

Windows 10 is a moving target. Current crashes may be caused by some recent system updates. It's hard to test on every single hardware and software configuration. For example some fix that makes the app work on latest version of Windows may cause it not to work on previous or vice versa. Which software version do you use? Have you already tried the latest 2.0.0?

You are mixing two things together. First of all, Flirc is always acting as a keyboard. It doesn't matter what controller you use in the Flirc GUI. You are not limited to using Flirc/* nor MCE profiles in the Harmony Hub. Flirc/* profiles are there for the quick start with using Flirc (these profiles are natively supported by Flirc's firmware and are tailored for specific application). You can use almost any other device profile in Harmony and then use Flirc GUI to teach Flirc what must it do when it receive the signal from the remote or blaster. The MCE keyboard has a complicated protocol which is not supported by Flirc, so you can't use it. What you can do is to add to Harmony some device profile, for example a TV profile (TV profiles usually have biggest number of keys available) for LG, Samsung or Panasonic TV (choose the one you don't have physically in your home) and then use Flirc GUI to assign keyboard combinations you need, for example CTRL+F6 you've mentioned, to remote buttons you want. I don't know anything on the Echo to Harmony connection and setup so I can't suggest anything on that part.

Having an universal remote you don't need to stick to media center codes. Try some other device codes, for example for some TV maker (I usually use Samsung TV codes, but LG should also work properly).

Please look at this thread:

@brunoland if you haven't changed keyboard mapping in the Kodi by yourself, then just use Flirc GUI software and record some remote button for letter V on full keyboard controller.

Don't use MCE profiles, especially MCE keyboard. You can use Flirc profiles in Harmony or some profiles for almost any hardware (for example a Samsung or LG TV is usually a good choice).

Beta software works with both old and new Flirc models. Right now it's more of an iteration of already existing version which adds support for the new configuration/control interface in new Flirc model. There are some bugs fixed, for example an issue with unreadable text in GUI when running it on high DPI screens is finally gone :). New model uses different approach regarding communication with the software. Now it uses HID interface, so there's no longer a need for installing drivers anymore (on Windows, as on other OS-es there was no need to do that on old model anyway). So goodbye driver problems :) (hopefully). As for the storing of IR codes, I think it's still a hash value, not raw data, but I'm not 100% sure. I hope Jason will give us an answer :). From my observations though the format has changed: old Flirc uses 4 byte long hashes, and new model uses 5 bytes for IR signal. Also whole configuration data structure is more flexible which will allow some cool features in the future (if you look carefully at the "New hardware features" infographic on the product's page there's a hint ;)).

You can rename the file and change the extension to .fcfg instead of .bin.

You should change the behaviour of the power button in your operating system power management settings. Flirc-SE is just "pressing" the power button so it's up to the operating system to interpret it and act according to its settings.

The case was built around RPi 1 model B+, which has identical dimensions and ports' types and location as RPi 2 and 3. The heatsink pole is still positioned for RPi 1, but it's not an issue for RPi 2 and 3 at all. I've been running RPi 2 in the case for a long time with OSMC/Kodi without any thermal issues and I've recently upgraded my setup to RPi 3 and there're still no issues. The heat conductive pad added to the case works well.

What firmware version does you Flirc have installed? It's displayed in the Flirc GUI when Flirc is connected. I don't know what IR protocol Humax uses. I've found some information that it may be using NEC proto. Key repeat should work with NEC, but I think there was some Flirc firmware revision where key repeat didn't work with NEC.

Make sure that all USB ports are enabled in the BIOS/UEFI settings. The LED being on doesn't mean that the port is active (the +5v line may be active even if the port is disabled).

HID stands for Human Interface (or sometimes Input) Device. It's a family of different USB devices meant for interaction between humans and computers. In case of Flirc it acts as a HID keyboard and HID codes in this case mean hardware identifier each key on a physical keyboard has assigned (it doesn't depend on the character/symbol on the key but rather the physical position of the key on the keyboard, e.g. second row, third key from left). HID codes are grouped into tables. Each table has its own identifier and purpose. There're tables for standard keyboard keys, for multimedia keys, for joysticks, for mice, etc. With current Flirc hardware (Flirc USB and Flirc SE) with current firmware you can only use codes that can be sent from the keyboard device. If I understand it correctly this includes only keyboard and multimedia tables and this is what Flirc uses. To use other tables Flirc would need to emulate another HID class (e.g. to use joystick table it would need to also present itself as a HID joystick device in addition to a keyboard one). Jason, if I'm wrong about that don't hesitate to correct this info :).

From what I can see Volumio is a headless daemon. It probably won't accept keyboard input. You can use other daemon that is actually listening for different input events (like keyboard events) and executes external commands and/or scripts. Triggerhappy is one of such daemons. I don't know what's the base system for Volumio distro, but if it's Raspbian then triggerhappy is available in its repositories. You also need to look into Volumio how to control it with local commands or scripts.

Yeah, this is dodgy sometimes. Good catch that OS reboot helps.

Hi, As for the double tap issue: either don't use WMC profile (or any profile using RC6 protocol) or record each key twice (with the same key combination in Flirc GUI). The WMC uses RC6 protocol which has an alternating bit value in the signal on each press of the button. As Flirc doesn't decode the data and uses its own algorithm to convert signal to some value it can store, a single bit change in the consecutive button presses causes the signal to look like a different key to Flirc firmware. Recording each button to the same key combination in Flirc GUI resolves this but requires more work. You are not required to use WMC. You can use a profile for almost any device. For example you can use a profile for a TV from a different manufacturer than you physically have. I'm using some newer Samsung TV profile on my remote (not Harmony) which uses NECx2 protocol. If you have Samsung TV then you can use for example a profile for LG TV (it usually uses NEC1 protocol which also works very well - all NEC family protocols should). I don't have any issues with NEC protocols and key repeat on remote button hold works good - this could also help you with one of your questions. At this time Flirc doesn't have an option for long press. This means you can't map different key or key combination to short and long press of the same button (unless the remote itself has long press option and can map different signals but to Flirc then these are 2 different buttons). On the other hand, if the signal timing is right, Flirc can simulate holding keyboard key down as long as the remote button is pressed. This should cause key repeat in the operating system of the device Flirc is connected to. You can tune this by some degree by changing inter-key delay value in Flirc GUI advanced settings. It may be also dependant on the remote protocol being used in the profile (as I've mentioned above). As for the other 2 questions I can't help you as I'm not using Flirc with any Android device.

Hi, Flirc doesn't need much power so I don't think that is a problem. To be sure you could use a powered USB hub or volt/amp meter plugged into the USB port (usually called Charge Doctor, like this one http://usb.brando.com/usb-power-current-voltage-tester_p03434c046d015.html). You don't need to enable "flirc" as a wake device using powercfg. This is not the source of the wake call. It uses HID keyboard interface to do that, so enabling "Allow this device to wake the computer" in dev manager for the correct keyboard device is the right way to go. I don't know what may cause the issue in your case. Maybe Flirc doesn't detect that the PC went into sleep mode for your specific hardware/software configuration. Can you test your Flirc on another PC? You don't need to install the Flirc software there, just plug it in, make sure that the option to allow waking up in dev mgr is enabled and check if it works. You can also erase the wake button from Flirc. With sleep detection enabled and no wake button recorded any key that is recorded in Flirc should wake the PC.

First of all you can do is only shutdown the OS running on the RPi. You can't power it off as RPi itself doesn't have any power management. It will still draw some current. Also, like Jason said above, you can't then power it on without physically reconnecting the power source to the RPi. There are some projects to add power management to RPi. For example like this one https://lowpowerlab.com/atxraspi/. But to be honest, you need to calculate if this is really needed. I've just did some tests with RPi3 with a current meter. My setup is RPi3 with 16GB microSD connected to ethernet, with Wi-Fi off and BT on. There's only Flirc connected to USB ports (I'm using NAS for content). No overclocking. On idle, the RPi draws around 0.3 A at 5 V, which gives 1.5 W (watt). If you leave it like that for full month it will use about 1.1 kWh (kilowatt hour). I don't know how much you pay for electricity in your country, but in Poland it's around 0.13-0.14 euro cents per 1 kWh. Let's even assume that the power supply brick is not ideal and lets round the monthly use up to 2 kWh. As you can see I'm paying 0.28 euro cents per month for RPi3 only being plugged in and idling. Yearly this is 3.36 EUR. Now ATXRaspi costs around $15 which gives roughly 13.5 EUR. You also need to pay for delivery. Let's assume its about 10 EUR - so you need to spend 23 EUR. This means you can run RPi3 idle for almost 7 years for the same price. BTW after shutting down the OS and the board still connected it draws about 0.1 A at 5 V which gives 0.5 W. I don't think it's worth doing.

If you want to control anything with Flirc, you first need to know if and how your device supports being controlled with USB keyboard. Flirc is "just" that. It works by emulating USB HID keyboard. What you should do is connect a normal USB PC keyboard (preferably a standard QWERTY one) to your set top box and look for all interesting keyboard shortcuts and combinations (with alt/ctrl/shift etc) and note them down. Then you can start configuring Flirc from the notes you've taken using Full keyboard controller in Flirc GUI.

The Flirc itself doesn't support mouse control. You would need some extra software for that, but I don't know if there's any for Android that could do that.

Sorry, I don't know OpenElec, as I'm using OSMC myself. They are more up to date with the Kodi release cycle. Also OSMC is based on Debian/Raspbian so they are using Debian package system as their update mechanism with is nicely integrated into the Kodi. As for the issue with recording: you don't press anything on your physical keyboard to record a button. You need to click in the app on the key in the app. Just select Full Keyboard in Controllers main menu (don't worry, it doesn't matter that you are using it for Kodi - the Flirc itself doesn't store anything about selected controller at all). On Full Keyboard just click on C and then press the button on the remote you want to use as a context menu button.

Hi, Just record a remote button for letter C in Flirc GUI. Also new version of Kodi (I think from 16.1 or 16.2) recognizes a long press on OK/Enter button as a context menu key (equivalent to pressing C). You can find more about keyboard shortcuts in Kodi on Kodi wiki pages.

This is strange. But I'm not a Harmony user so I don't know how else I can help you with this :(. Maybe there's some setting in the Harmony software you also need to enable or disable. I think there already are HarmonyOne users here on the forum so it should work.

Hi, What about just removing plastic case from Flirc-USB and mounting it with receiver pointing in the right direction in the HU frame? The PCB is really not that thick. As for the desoldering it should be possible but it's not easy, as this is surface mounted element. You would probably need a hotair soldering gun and a lot of patience to properly heat up the receiver and the PCB for them not to break. The receiver chip uses 5 pins. After that you shouldn't use a long cable. It's not about the voltage for powering the chip but rather the signal output to the main micro-controller. I wouldn't make it more than 10-15 cm (4-6"). I think it would be much better idea to extend the USB connection, as it uses differential signalling so it's much more resistant to interference - and you will get a lot of those in an automobile electronics.