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yawor last won the day on June 18

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About yawor

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  1. I used to live in Oswiecim (which is much closer to Raciborz than Warsaw) with my parents when I was young :). Regarding Flirc/MCE issue, I've just tested this by programming an MCE device on my universal remote. I don't have neither FireTV nor MCE receiver so I can't test this fully, but I've confirmed that the remote is using MCE/RC5 control scheme. I've plugged Flirc v2 into my laptop and tried controlling it without any other configuration. As expected there was no response from the Flirc/laptop. Which FireTV version is it? The first one with its own built-in IR receiver? Maybe the FireTV itself accepts MCE remote controls. What happens when you unplug the Flirc from the FireTV and then try controlling with the MCE remote?
  2. Let's start at the beginning. What remote are you using? What device type on the remote are you using to control your Flirc? Did you configure your remote to MCE? Do you have another Flirc in the second computer or just a standard MCE receiver? If you don't have another Flirc then there's nothing in the Flirc itself that can conflict with an MCE receiver, unless you recorded MCE remote buttons in the Flirc itself. Then both devices will obviously respond to the same remote profile. Built-in MCE profile is not for MCE remotes but for emulating MCE functionality with a custom Flirc protocol used by Harmony remotes. It has nothing to do with RC5 protocol used by MCE remotes and should not respond to them.
  3. @dharrah the remote seems to be programmable. When you switch to one of the non-DirecTV modes you should be able to reprogram the remote to use with different manufacturers and models. You should've got instructions and setup codes in some kind of user manual with the remote. Try programming different setup codes in different modes to find one that works best for you. If you don't have your user manual, then you can download this one: https://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/Remote_Controls/DIRECTVRC64forWeb.pdf If you don't have a Samsung TV then first try Samsung TV codes. If you have a Samsung TV then try an LG for example. Also Panasonic TV codes are said to be working well with Flirc.
  4. I wasn't referring to CEC in my previous post. It's about the remote and IR signals it sends. If you keep your remote in TV mode and use it to configure your Flirc, then both devices are getting the same signal no matter what input you set on your TV and both devices will react to it. That's why I've written above that you should setup another device on your remote for use with Flirc so there's no signal collision/overlap between TV and Flirc. 1. I'm not the one to ask for such features. I'm helping on the forum. It's @jason you need to ask. 2. I'm not in the US but I can recommend a "sister" remote to the one I'm using. Try looking for OARUSB04G. I'm using it's European version which is URC-6440. It's a nice remote which lays well in the hand. It's equipped with a microUSB connector for configuration on PC. There's also a community forum focused on remotes from the manufacturer of these remotes and the community maintained opensource software called RemoteMaster, which allows you to configure the remote beyond any other I know. You can also install a modified firmware (it's very easy and fully reversible) which upgrades this remote from 4-devices, 2-activities to 12-devices, 6-activities, adds a shift button (it's on the List button) and shifted and double shifted buttons, long press and double press macros and some other features I don't remember right now. BTW, just to be 100% sure about CEC, if you unplug Flirc from the FireTV, do you loose all control or do you still can control the device?
  5. Ok, so what you need to do is to first configure another device on your remote. You can't just use it in TV mode because you control both devices at the same time - for example, when you switch to a different input on TV or open a menu on TV and press direction keys to control your TV, also your Android box will react to the presses and you probably don't want that. Use your TV remote's functionality and set some device on one of the device buttons (I would probably go with DVD/VCR mode). Then use your remote in that mode to configure your Flirc. You can test different codes to find one that works best for you.
  6. To be sure that the CEC is really disabled, can you connect your Android box to some other TV or monitor and still try with the same remote? It's suspicious to me that by covering the remote it worked ok. Maybe this is also na RF remote and TV is getting the RF commands. As for the remote itself, did you program your remote to control some other device and then paired that to the Flirc?
  7. What kind of remote is it? Does it have a universal remote capability in addition to being a dedicated TV remote? How did you set it up? If it doesn't have a universal remote capability then are you trying to use your TV's remote to control your Flirc/FireTV?
  8. Great that the issue is now resolved. No long press yet unfortunately.
  9. Your remote has 12 keys, but in your config I see 13 recorded. One key is duplicated and the hash for that key seems to be from a different remote. Maybe you've accidentally recorded your TV's remote when you've been configuring your Flirc. It is very sensitive so it is possible that someone else has been using the TV at the time and pressed some button on the remote before you did. Other issue is why any key on that remote produces the same code. It seems to be using some weird protocol and/or different carrier frequency which makes it not compatible with Flirc. What you can do is to click on Erase in Flirc GUI and press a key on the TV's remote. If I'm right the operation should finish successfully and your Flirc should not react to your TV's remote anymore.
  10. Can you provide more information on your hardware? What TV do you have and what remote control for it? What remote control do you use with Flirc? Please save a configuration from Flirc to a file and attach it here.
  11. Have you tried switching to a different USB port? This usually helped when I've been using old Flirc on Win7 PC and this happened.
  12. Sorry, I think there was some miscommunication. If you own an LG TV, then use a profile for LG TV for your TV. But don't use other LG TV profile to also control your Flirc because they would then interfere with each other. In that case use, for example, a Samsung TV profile for one Flirc and Panasonic TV profile for the other. BTW do you already have at least one Flirc? Have you already played with Flirc GUI?
  13. I would go with a different brand. With the same brand it's high possibility that the button will send the same signals or will partially overlap. With different brands it shouldn't happen.
  14. You can use them both in the same room. Maybe I've confused you by using TV profiles as an example. It doesn't have to do anything with actual TV receivers. What I'm referring to are device profiles in the remote control (in your case it's Harmony remote). Let's forget about Flirc for a moment and go with a different example. Let's say you have two different DVR devices (from different manufacturer preferably). If they are the same or from the same manufacturer then there's big possibility they use the same IR signals and will both react at the same time. But if they are different then they most probably use different IR signals (maybe different protocol or at least different device/subdevice identifier). Now to control them both with your Harmony you would need to start up the Harmony software and find both models and add them to your remote, optionally adding them to your activities. Then you just switch between devices/activities on the remote depending on which DVR you want to control. Now you can threat two Flirc receivers like to different DVRs, because it is up to you to teach each Flirc signals you want them to react to. So you choose one device profile on Harmony and then teach one Flirc (the other needs to be disconnected). Then you swap Flircs, select another device profile on your remote and teach the second Flirc. After that they won't respond to the same IR signals and you are choosing to which Flirc you are sending commands by selecting a specific profile (or Activity) on the remote. In my earlier post I've referenced LG, Samsung and Panasonic TVs as a remote profiles (not as real TVs, only profiles) only because they are known to work well with Flirc. Also profiles for TVs (especially for modern ones) are usually using all keys on the remote. Profiles for other device types (like sat, dvr etc) may not use all the keys so the unused keys would be inactive on the remote. I hope it's now clear to you and I'm sorry if not. Maybe it's a language barrier as English is not my native tongue.
  15. Highlighting would be nice but it's not universally representative. For example it would not work very well for full keyboard controller. If you have few buttons recorded with modifiers (shift, ctrl etc) and all assigned button were to be highlighted, then how would you recognise which buttons had been assigned with modifiers and which not? Don't thing I'm against such functionality. It would be really helpful, but I think it would need to be more universal. Maybe a dialog containing a table with assigned keys. It would then highlight keys when hovered or clicked on specific line. Also Flirc itself doesn't store an information on which controller you've recorded a key (whether it was on Kodi, FireTV or Full Keyboard). It only stores a HID keycode with optional modifier and a hash code derived from an IR signal. So the table would rather display letter X for example instead a Kodi's Stop function in such table. Also you can already display such a list of assigned keys but not in GUI. When you've installed Flirc software, besides the GUI app you've also installed a command line util called flirc_util. If you're using Windows then you need to open command line windows (Win + R, enter cmd.exe and press enter, for example), then change the directory to where you've installed Flirc and then you can execute: flirc_util.exe keys