Jump to content
Flirc Forums

yawor

Administrators
  • Content count

    848
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    54

yawor last won the day on November 14

yawor had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

63 Excellent

2 Followers

About yawor

  • Rank
    Forum Support
  • Birthday 03/03/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Warsaw, Poland

Recent Profile Visitors

4,751 profile views
  1. Numeric keypad

    You can display all programmed keys using a command line tool. It's been installed together with the GUI. It's called flirc_util. What OS are you using? Regarding the numpad, I'll try to prepare a "plugin" version of it over the weekend.
  2. Flirc doesn't pass on keypresses

    Try connecting it to a different USB port pin header. Let me know if this changes anything. PS. I'm moving this to General :).
  3. Wake and Sleep HTPC with Flirc (V2) And Harmony Hub

    You're complicating things too much for yourself. First of all, current firmware of Flirc v2 by default should wake your PC when you press any remote button it knows (any you've recorded previously in the GUI or one of the built-in profiles). Or you can record a WAKE key using the Full Keyboard controller in the GUI, which will cause that only remote button associated with the WAKE key is going to wake your PC. Second, on the Media Keys controllers in the GUI, you have a Wake/Suspend key. Using this key you can make your PC go to sleep.
  4. Do you know what device is the AUX 001 code for? The manufacturer and maybe model? Do you have some code set book or list for your remote? From what I can see this seems to be some variant of the NEC protocol, but it's too short (NEC1 has 32 bits of information, this one only carries 24 bits).
  5. @TVAddict it's a matter of the IR protocol used by specific setup code (or code set). Different protocols have different rules regarding the signal repeat. Some use a full frame repeat where the same frame is being repeated all the time, others use different start frame and then some repeat pattern (like the NEC1/NEC2 ditto frame). Flirc should work properly with any protocol using full frame repeat, if the repeated frame is the same as the starting frame (this isn't always the case). It also has support for NEC1/NEC2 repeat. It would be helpful if you could do what @jason has asked about anyway. If you can, go back to your previous setup on the remote, enable IR logging in Flirc and post here your log files. We will analyse the signals and there's a chance that a support for that protocol could be added in the future.
  6. My Flirc (normal USB one in my case) is behind the TV. I don't even need to point the remote at some specific location. You can also try mounting it on the back panel. The signal should bounce from the wall behind the HTPC. I would try this before making some irreversible modding.
  7. I've been looking at pictures of that LianLi case. There's indeed no good place on the front face to modify. But I see that it has a lot of perforated surfaces on the side and top of the case for the air flow. Flirc's receiver is really sensitive. It's a good chance that if you mount it to the case's right wall where the perforation is, with the IR receiver's lenses pointing outside, it's going to be enough to work properly. No need for IR window. Just make sure to put some isolation on the PCB as there are some soldering points, so it doesn't short out when it touches the metal case.
  8. Flirc + XR11 Infinity Remote

    URC-6440 is an universal remote. This means you need to configure the remote first before it's able to send any signals. This also means that you can select from a multitude of different remote configurations to select one which works best with Flirc. For example, I'm using a setup code for a Samsung TV (uses NECx2 protocol), which works perfectly with Flirc. You can configure the remote without connecting it to your computer, using manual setup procedure (it's described in the remote's manual). But you can also connect it to your PC (using a standard micro USB cable) and configure it using a RemoteMaster software. If you decide to go that route, you can ask me for help in a private message (configuring a remote is not in scope of this forum).
  9. Be advised that any changes you do to the Flirc's board you do at your own risk, they void warranty and may lead to irreversible damage to the unit. I'm not 100% sure (@jason should know exactly) but I think it's only soldered. The receiver is not just a photo-diode or photo-transistor. It's an integrated circuit containing an IR signal demodulator. I've never seen a demodulating receiver in a classic LED form package. You can look here what are the available packages: http://www.vishay.com/ir-receiver-modules/. I think the current one is a Heimdall type for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number exactly. I think the Minimold type would be best match to what you want. They should be electrically compatible (Heimdall has 4 pins, but 2 of them are just ground). You still need one for 38 kHz, but I'm not able to tell you which part number you should use.
  10. Flirc + XR11 Infinity Remote

    Seems like both remotes are using the same protocol. Googling for dreambox and XMP confirms that. This means that, at least at this time, both remotes are unusable. I wouldn't say that they won't ever be supported, but I wouldn't hold my breadth waiting for that.
  11. Flirc + XR11 Infinity Remote

    OK, here's my analysis. Both remotes seem to be using the same protocol. That's why both remotes behave in the same way. The protocol is XMP, which is really strange one. It can generate even three different signals per each key: repeat frame is different from first frame and the remote can send additional frame on key release which is also different than both previous ones. The timings of the signal are really short and there are different gap times between the frames. Unfortunately all this makes it really hard to implement support for this protocol :(. Have you seen the URC-6440 (or OneForAll Simple 4) remote? It has backlit keys and feels quite good in the hand. It's fully programmable and you can download an open source RemoteMaster software (from hifi-remote.com/forums) which supports that remote and allows you to program it down to a single key function. Another option would be a Nevo C2 remote, which is quite a beast and also has backlit keys and is also supported by RemoteMaster. I have both and I like both. I'm using the Nevo as my daily driver now.
  12. Flirc + XR11 Infinity Remote

    That's a shame. I'll analyze your log files tomorrow but I took a quick look at the first one and it doesn't look very promising. The frames are very short and the timings show that the protocol the remote is using is not very robust. But that's just a quick look.
  13. Flirc + XR11 Infinity Remote

    From what I can see this is an universal remote. This means that you can try different setup codes. Do you have a manual and setup code book for it?
  14. I assume that you're using MCE profile on your Harmony remote. There are two solutions: 1. Like raymondjpg has done, disable built-in Microsoft WMC profile in the Advanced options in the GUI. This means the MCE profile on your remote won't work out of the box anymore. You need to use the GUI and record all your buttons to the functions you want. Because of how the MCE protocol works, every other press of the button the signal differs a little, causing Flirc to see it as a different button. So you need to record every button two times with the same function selection (for example, select volume up, press vol+ on the remote, then select volume up once again and again press the vol+ on the remote). 2. Don't use MCE profile. Either use one of Harmony flirc profiles (like flirc/wmc or flirc/kodi) which are supported out of the box (check if they are enabled in Advanced settings) or use some other profile, for example for LG, Samsung or Panasonic TV (whichever you don't have physically) and record your keys using GUI (no double recording needed). I recommend some Samsung TV profile if you don't have Samsung TV - I'm using an universal remote set to one and it works with Flirc beautifully.
  15. skipping cursor

    Try loading the config from my attachment. You had two keys duplicated with strange IR hashes. Maybe you have some IR interference which got caught when you were doing the recording and then started causing skips. The two duplicated keys where down direction key and escape. my_flirc_config2.fcfg
×