Jump to content
Flirc Forums


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


yawor last won the day on June 6

yawor had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

80 Excellent


About yawor

  • Rank
    Forum Support
  • Birthday 03/03/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Warsaw, Poland

Recent Profile Visitors

5,876 profile views
  1. yawor

    Flirc SE vs Flirc V2

    SE in the name means Streacom Edition. This is a 1st gen Flirc with a form factor which is compatible with Streacom HTPC cases and it also has an added ability to power the PC on from full shutdown (not just from sleep/hibernation). Other than that it's just 1st gen and doesn't support any new features added in 2nd gen Flirc like macros or long press.
  2. yawor

    Flirc + Samsung bn59 remote control

    This probably works in a similar way as the LG Magic remote, which also is a BT remote. When a Magic remote is paired to an LG TV, the TV allows you to associate specific device (brand/model etc) with a specific input (HDMI1/HDMI2 etc). When that input is then selected and you press any key on the remote, the TV uses the remote's IR blaster diode to control your device. This doesn't mean that the remote itself is an universal one. It is just an IR output for the TV's firmware. So this means that you probably can use it like @Madiba mentioned, but you can use it that way only when paired with the TV (it probably can't work stand-alone).
  3. Ok, try erasing your Flirc configuration (save it first so you can then restore it). Then try with fully erased Flirc if it still reacts. There's probably some hash overlap with signals from your remotes. Regarding the Flirc GUI, the only way right now is to change scaling setting in Windows screen settings.
  4. yawor

    Sensor sensitivity diagram

    Do you have reception issues? If not then I wouldn't bother. Mine is pointed towards the wall and, like I've said before, out of line of sight. If yours is next to the TV, does it mean that it is in line of sight? If yes then I think it should be ok.
  5. yawor

    Sensor sensitivity diagram

    Well, obviously IR signal can't go through metal, so if you have the 2nd gen, then it can only receive within some angle on the opposite side from the USB plug. But IR is still in a light spectrum and a lot of surfaces (like walls) reflect it pretty well. So even though the 2nd gen Flirc can "see" the signal only from one side, you still get pretty good reception from multiple directions. Because of the light reflection property of IR it's hard to create a diagram like for RF antennas, where the signal is not reflected by non-metalic surfaces. Just as an example, my Flirc is behind my TV, which hangs on the wall. There's no line of sight at all from the couch point of view, but it works great. Of course it'll depend on many things like wall surface type, ambient IR pollution, power of the IR blaster in the remote, distance.
  6. It's possible you've accidentally recorded these signals when learning the enter key. Try this: click on Erase in the Flirc GUI and then press the power button for Onkyo.
  7. Yes. Use the Fire TV controller in the Flirc GUI.
  8. Does your ShieldTV have an IR receiver? Or is it one of the newer ones without it? If it does have the IR receiver and you want to use Flirc only for extra keys you want to map in Kodi, then you should start with ShieldTV device upgrade, add more keys to it and then teach your Flirc only the extra keys. If it doesn't and you plan to control your whole ShieldTV with Flirc, then it doesn't matter what you're going to start with. You should choose a well supported protocol (like the NECx2 I've mentioned in my previous post) and choose device/subdevice numbers that won't conflict with your other hardware. Flirc is a learning device. The Flirc software let you map keyboard keys to remote buttons. It has native support for two protocols: a proprietary Flirc protocol (used in Harmony remotes) and MCE, and they are used in the built-in profiles - a pre-configured set of mappings for use with Harmony. Other than that, the Flirc doesn't make any assumptions regarding the remote control. It does what you configure it to do.
  9. There's no protocol executor for this remote which would use native Flirc protocol (I've been able to create one for maxq622 processor used in URC-6440 remote), so you need to use one of the standard protocols. I think the best way is to create custom device upgrade in RemoteMaster yourself. Select NECx2 protocol with some random device and subdevice values (eg 251 and 200) and add as many functions as you want with unique OBC values. Then map some functions to buttons and other to the soft buttons on the screen. After that teach your Flirc using Flirc software to react to your remote.
  10. Unfortunately it won't. Besides the heat sink post, there are also the screw posts which go down right to the RPi board itself. The RPi board is screwed to them from the bottom, through the plastic bottom part of the case. You'd need to make the two screw posts shorter by cutting them to proper length (not an easy task). I don't know how much the post is threaded, so there's a risk of loosing the ability to screw it back together.
  11. yawor

    Recording keys - "Button already exists"

    It seems that all keys on this remote send the same signal. I've googled around and this remote is actually a Bluetooth remote. It requires pairing with the TV to work. I think that the IR is only used for pairing.
  12. yawor

    Recording keys - "Button already exists"

    @Frank, to use flirc_util.exe you need to first close the Flirc GUI app. Regarding your issue with the remote and the log you've posted, have you pressed the same button 3-4 times to get this log? Or have you pressed different buttons? I've analysed the signal data from your log and they are all from the same remote button. The remote uses NECx2 protocol with device 7, subdevice 7 and the button you've pressed has the code 209. Can you create another log, but this time press few different keys? You don't need start recording. Just open the device log, enable IR debugging and press some keys. Save the log to a file and attach it here (don't paste it as it makes it harder to analyse).
  13. yawor

    Invalid SKU

    @jason can you take a look?
  14. yawor

    Invalid SKU

    You have very old Flirc software. Please update it.
  15. One of the main features of the Flirc RPi case (besides awesome looks :)) is that it also acts as a heat sink for the CPU. There's no way to do that with the HAT, as it covers the CPU. Some time ago some user removed the plastic cover on top of the case (it's easily detachable) and cut a hole with a dremmel right above the GPIO port and built a GPIO extension which raised the GPIO port high enough that the HAT could be placed on top of the Flirc case. Then he 3d printed the case for the HAT which attached to the top of the case (in place of the original plastic cover). I've started doing the same but I didn't bother with making a makeshift GPIO extension but I've found a 40-pin goldpin female header with long male pins on the other end, which is more than enough to raise the port on its own. What I would like to see is the GPIO hole already done at the factory and ability to download a 3d model of replacement cover to print out. It could then be adapted to whatever HAT someone would like to use with the case. Here's the extender: And how it looks in the case when mounted on the RPi 3: