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yawor last won the day on July 6

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About yawor

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  1. @jason I've never used LIRC. I've googled lirc hid input and got some results but maybe I've jumped too fast to conclusion that this is possible. On the other hand, EventGhost (on Windows) is 100% capable of using any generic HID device as a source of events.
  2. @jason, I think LIRC can also work with HID input. So instead of trying to implement such advanced mode using serial port emulation I would much rather like to see Flirc sending a custom HID report containing 4-byte hash it is calculating from IR signal. It could do that for any unrecognised (not recorded) button. That would not need any drivers to work. It would be usable with LIRC and on Windows with apps like EventGhost.
  3. You can look at this thread on Kodi forum: https://forum.kodi.tv/showthread.php?tid=260736. It shows how to disable long press by adding your own keymap file. You may try using Kodi Keymap Editor add-on: http://kodi.wiki/view/Add-on:Keymap_Editor. I'm not using it so it's up to you to find out how to use it. You can also look at this xml: https://github.com/xbmc/xbmc/blob/master/system/keymaps/keyboard.xml. This is a default keymap file. If you look for word "longpress" you'll see that it is used as a key modifier. That way you can find all buttons that are long press capable and also disable them if you use them with your remote (there's no need to override if your remote doesn't use them).
  4. Look at this post: It's not officially released yet, but you can use Upgrade Firmware in the Flirc GUI to flash these. To know which model you have (either nemo or dori) you can go to Advanced in Flirc GUI when Flirc is connected and you should see something like SKU: Flirc 2.0 [nemo] for example.
  5. That's strange. It should work. Maybe @jason will be able to help you, as I'm out of ideas here.
  6. It seems Windows may not be respecting your BIOS settings. Which Flirc do you have? Old one (plastic): Go to Advanced settings in Flirc GUI and disable sleep detection. This should disable wake up support in Flirc. New one (metal): Go to Device Manager in Windows and find section with keyboards. If you have multiple keyboards connected then you need to somehow find out which one is Flirc (for example by unplugging temporarily other keyboards). Then open properties of the keyboard device and on power management tab uncheck checkbox right next to something like "allow this device to wake the computer". This can also be applied to old Flirc.
  7. Flirc will wake your PC when a signal is received which is known to the Flirc, unless the Sleep/Wake button is also recorded. So if you haven't recorded the Sleep/Wake button, then any remote key you've recorded in Flirc GUI will wake your PC. When you record the Sleep/Wake button, then only that button will be able to trigger the wake up. Also it's not really recommended to use the same remote control for multiple devices, unless it's an universal remote (or has such functionality) and you actually use different profiles programmed on the remote to control different devices.
  8. You mean the mapping in the Kodi controller screen in the GUI? In that case yes. The Kodi controller screen (and most others) is just a layer above the full keyboard controller with predefined shortcuts. The issue comes from the fact that both the GUI and the Flirc itself don't use char codes (codes assigned to specific symbols) but USB HID codes and these depend on the physical button position on a keyboard. The operating system uses keyboard layout mapping to translate HID codes to key/char codes. I know that the situation isn't great. I'm not a creator of the app so I don't know whether it is possible to check the layout set in the OS or not. This would need to work across all supported systems. Also there's a lot of non-US keyboards that are compatible with US QWERTY, like for example "Polish (Programmers)" layout which, despite its name, is used by most people in Poland. Displaying a warning in these cases could also cause a confusion. There's no win-win here for everyone. The best solution would probably be an option to load different layouts from files and some user-submitable database of layouts to download from, but this would require a total rewrite of the app so it won't happen anytime soon.
  9. Just ignore symbols in the GUI and look at your hardware keyboard. What matters is the position of the key (for example top row, 11th from the left). So, for example, on german keyboard you should have + two keys to the right from letter P. In GUI it's ] key. When you record that one it will then work as +. Similarly the - is at the same position where the / key is in the GUI.
  10. I used to live in Oswiecim (which is much closer to Raciborz than Warsaw) with my parents when I was young :). Regarding Flirc/MCE issue, I've just tested this by programming an MCE device on my universal remote. I don't have neither FireTV nor MCE receiver so I can't test this fully, but I've confirmed that the remote is using MCE/RC5 control scheme. I've plugged Flirc v2 into my laptop and tried controlling it without any other configuration. As expected there was no response from the Flirc/laptop. Which FireTV version is it? The first one with its own built-in IR receiver? Maybe the FireTV itself accepts MCE remote controls. What happens when you unplug the Flirc from the FireTV and then try controlling with the MCE remote?
  11. Let's start at the beginning. What remote are you using? What device type on the remote are you using to control your Flirc? Did you configure your remote to MCE? Do you have another Flirc in the second computer or just a standard MCE receiver? If you don't have another Flirc then there's nothing in the Flirc itself that can conflict with an MCE receiver, unless you recorded MCE remote buttons in the Flirc itself. Then both devices will obviously respond to the same remote profile. Built-in MCE profile is not for MCE remotes but for emulating MCE functionality with a custom Flirc protocol used by Harmony remotes. It has nothing to do with RC5 protocol used by MCE remotes and should not respond to them.
  12. @dharrah the remote seems to be programmable. When you switch to one of the non-DirecTV modes you should be able to reprogram the remote to use with different manufacturers and models. You should've got instructions and setup codes in some kind of user manual with the remote. Try programming different setup codes in different modes to find one that works best for you. If you don't have your user manual, then you can download this one: https://www.directv.com/learn/pdf/Remote_Controls/DIRECTVRC64forWeb.pdf If you don't have a Samsung TV then first try Samsung TV codes. If you have a Samsung TV then try an LG for example. Also Panasonic TV codes are said to be working well with Flirc.
  13. I wasn't referring to CEC in my previous post. It's about the remote and IR signals it sends. If you keep your remote in TV mode and use it to configure your Flirc, then both devices are getting the same signal no matter what input you set on your TV and both devices will react to it. That's why I've written above that you should setup another device on your remote for use with Flirc so there's no signal collision/overlap between TV and Flirc. 1. I'm not the one to ask for such features. I'm helping on the forum. It's @jason you need to ask. 2. I'm not in the US but I can recommend a "sister" remote to the one I'm using. Try looking for OARUSB04G. I'm using it's European version which is URC-6440. It's a nice remote which lays well in the hand. It's equipped with a microUSB connector for configuration on PC. There's also a community forum focused on remotes from the manufacturer of these remotes and the community maintained opensource software called RemoteMaster, which allows you to configure the remote beyond any other I know. You can also install a modified firmware (it's very easy and fully reversible) which upgrades this remote from 4-devices, 2-activities to 12-devices, 6-activities, adds a shift button (it's on the List button) and shifted and double shifted buttons, long press and double press macros and some other features I don't remember right now. BTW, just to be 100% sure about CEC, if you unplug Flirc from the FireTV, do you loose all control or do you still can control the device?
  14. Ok, so what you need to do is to first configure another device on your remote. You can't just use it in TV mode because you control both devices at the same time - for example, when you switch to a different input on TV or open a menu on TV and press direction keys to control your TV, also your Android box will react to the presses and you probably don't want that. Use your TV remote's functionality and set some device on one of the device buttons (I would probably go with DVD/VCR mode). Then use your remote in that mode to configure your Flirc. You can test different codes to find one that works best for you.
  15. To be sure that the CEC is really disabled, can you connect your Android box to some other TV or monitor and still try with the same remote? It's suspicious to me that by covering the remote it worked ok. Maybe this is also na RF remote and TV is getting the RF commands. As for the remote itself, did you program your remote to control some other device and then paired that to the Flirc?