OK, thanks. It's a remote for Philips DVD player models DVP3962 DVP3980 DVP3982. I've programmed my universal remote for one of those players. Protocol being used is RC6, so I was right about that. The carrier frequency is standard for RC6 (36 kHz) so it in range for Flirc. RC6 is similar to RC5, so it has a toggle bit which is alternating between key presses. But the bit encoding is reversed compared to RC5. I've tested with old Flirc (fw 3.8.0) and the behaviour is exactly like described by @Segfault. I've been able to record all 4 directional keys (with some errors that the key is already recorded) but after that some keys are alternating between different recorded functions. For example, in my case, pressing left dir key on remote once executes cursor left, but another press on left dir key executes cursor right. On new Flirc (fw 220.127.116.11 and 18.104.22.168) the keys are properly recognised. There were no issues at all with recording all 4 direction keys (each key recorded twice because of toggle bit in RC6). Normal operation was ok: I've been able to properly navigate in the foreground app using direction keys. No issues like with v1, that the key is recognised as something else. Jason, if you have a Harmony, you should be able to add one of the DVD models I've mentioned at the beginning.
If you don't have a Samsung TV then you can try 2051 in TV mode. On that code both v1 and v2 work really well. It uses NECx2 protocol which works really well with Flirc. I don't know how well do you know your remote, but if you don't want to use TV device slot on your remote for Flirc, then you can switch any other device slot to a TV mode (this means you can use codes for TVs on that slot). To do that you can use 9xx codes: http://www.hifi-remote.com/wiki/index.php?title=992 Just replace SETUP button with Magic button, and when there's an info to tap a specific device button then select the slot using Device button and confirm with Magic. For example, if you want to use a TV code on DVD slot, then use following sequence: Hold Magic for few seconds, until one of the device slots blink 2 times and stay lit.Enter 992 (the led should blink 2 times after entering last digit).Using device button, select TV slot and press Magic.Using device button, select DVD slot and press Magic (the led should blink 2 times after that operation).After that you can select DVD slot, hold down the Magic button then when in programming mode, enter 2051. If you want to reset DVD slot to a DVD codes repeat the same sequence but in step 3 also select DVD slot (so 2 times the same slot). This works the same way on my OFA Smart Control. Also on v2, when you record a button, please hold it a little longer. Flirc v2 analyses the delay between signal repeats and saves that value along the button and key info.
It's an issue with the keyboard layout you use on Windows. It seems that you use your local keyboard layout on Windows, but at the same time you use an US QWERTY (or compatible) layout on LE8. The issue comes from the fact, that Flirc GUI knows only one kb layout: US QWERTY. Because of that there's a problem if you use a layout which is incompatible with it (e.g. you need to press a different key or combination to get the same symbol as on US QWERTY). Flirc hardware only knows standard HID codes which are always the same depending on the physical position of the key on the keyboard (this doesn't depend on the layout). When you press a key on the keyboard, the operating system receives the HID code and maps it to a key code (the code that is assigned to a specific symbol or function) depending on the selected keyboard layout in the system itself. To solve your issue, you need to do two things: Set the kb layout to be the same on both systems. You would probably still want to use your local layout (as you probably also have a hardware keyboard with that layout printed on the keys) which you use on Windows. Then you should also use the same layout on LE8. I can't tell you how to change it because I don't use LE8.You need to change the way you record your keys. Look at your hardware keyboard you have connected to your PC. Find how to get the minus sign on it (which key or key combination you need to press to print "-"). Then open Flirc GUI, go to Controllers -> Full Keyboad, but instead of pressing a button in the GUI which has a minus symbol on it, press the same key or key combination you use on your hardware keyboard by the keys' position on it. So if on your hardware keyboard the minus sign is right next to the right shift, then in the GUI, to record the minus sign, you need to also press a key right next to the right shift (in GUI its "/" and "?" key). You need to do the same for other symbols that are not achieved in the same way as on the US QWERTY keyboard. There should be no problem with symbols which are the same as on the US QWERTY.There's a plan to add support for different keyboard layouts to the GUI, but that unfortunately requires a full rewrite of the app and probably won't happen that fast. If you have more questions related to this problem don't hesitate to ask. I'll try to help you the best I can.
No problem :). We all learn something all the time and I'm certainly not a person who knows everything. Yes, you probably should be able to use output from Flirc SE (the one which is normally connected to motherboard's power switch pins) to the reset and it should work just like you expect. But remember that closing or suspending the OS on RPi doesn't really do anything besides closing the OS :). The CPU and other peripherals are still drawing power. But as you later mention, saving power is not your main concern, so this may be an OK solution for you, That's not exactly what I've meant. The Y cable just splits the power. What I've meant and what the boards I've linked to do, is a circuit which is able to control power delivery to the Pi. These boards communicate with Pi over GPIO. It's something like this: when power button on the board is pressed, one of the GPIO pins changes state, which is detected by a script or software running in the OS, which in turn executes system halt. Just before system closes some other GPIO pin changes state by software, which is in turn detected by the power management board. This is a signal that system is about to finish shutdown and power can be cut in a moment. Of course every board can use their own technique for this, it's just a simplified description of how this works. The power is delivered to RPi through some kind of relay (mechanic or solid state). Wouldn't the reboot function in Kodi be enough? I don't know RetroPie, so I don't know what power options are available in it, but it also probably have a reboot option. This should reboot the hardware so it starts right from the bootloader. Of course having a hardware reset option just in case isn't that bad at all. Even if you won't use it as a "wake" function. But it can be nice option if OS freezes and the only other way to bring it back to live is to pull the power plug.
Hi, First of all, Raspberry Pi (any version that is available up to this date) does not have any power management by itself at all. So as long as you have power connected directly to the RPi it will draw it no matter if the OS is running or not. There's also no power button support on the board, so it's not directly compatible with Flirc SE - as RPi doesn't support power states you can't control them with Flirc SE. To actually use Flirc SE with RPi you'd need additional hardware. The hardware should have its own power supply port (which should be used to power whole set instead of RPi's Micro USB one) and probably should also connect to RPi's GPIO pins. It would also probably need additional software running on the Pi which would communicate with extra hardware over GPIO (for example to notify it that the OS has been properly closed and the power can be cut). The hardware should support power button by itself. I've read the manual for MEDIAPI+ and the board inside of it doesn't support any of the requirements I've described. It looks like it connects the external power supply port directly to RPi, with just a simple hardware power switch in between. This is not enough for properly interfacing RPi with Flirc SE (actually it doesn't add anything helpful in this topic). There are some extension boards which add power management functionality to RPi. Some examples: https://lowpowerlab.com/guide/atxraspi/https://hackaday.io/project/1967-atx-pihttps://www.pi-supply.com/product/pi-supply-raspberry-pi-power-switch/I don't know if these boards can be adapted to properly work with Flirc SE though. I don't have any of them as there's really no need to do that. My RPi 3 is always on behind my TV. I've been doing some calculations on the power consumption and cost when RPi 3 is running constantly and it was only a few dollars per year (I don't remember exactly how much, the calculation is somewhere on the forum). Of course the cost is also dependent on the cost of electricity in your area (mine is around $0.13 per kWh).
@Kevin Cowans as we are only 1 hour apart timezone wise, in case you have some problems running ubuntu let me know using private message here on the forum. I'll try to help you then. As for using keyboard over BT, you'll unfortunately find that you can only use it when the OS is fully booted. You also need to pair the keyboard in the OS. So for booting Linux from USB you need to use Unifying (or some other keyboard).
This is getting weirder :(. I've upgraded to 4.0.15 and checked on both my computers and it still works properly. Jason has asked this before, but can you test on the same hardware but with a different system? Maybe one of the live usb distros so you don't need to modify your hard drive. I don't know if the sleep will work with live usb though (it should). How long do you have your Win10? Maybe there's some driver conflict caused by something you've installed before. Windows USB drivers can get messy sometimes and potentially non-related things start to misbehave. It's a last resort, but I wonder if system reinstallation (or factory reset in Win10) would help in this situation.
Can you do a test? Clear both old and new Flirc and then record one button on old one and the same on new one. Then save both configs and attach them here. Also clear new Flirc again and load config from old one and then also save it and attach as a third file. As for the flirc_util error, do you have Flirc GUI opened? It should be closed before accessing Flirc with flirc_util.
Yes, of course. It still uses HID standard. I have Option software installed for extra features of MX Master mouse. You can install standalone Unifying software (without SetPoint or Option) to be able to manage your receiver: http://support.logitech.com/en_gb/software/unifying