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aesalazar

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Everything posted by aesalazar

  1. Hi @ravichopra. I have since switched to the MX-990 but with pretty much the same results. As for the press-and-hold, it has been a while but I seem to remember trying it but not having much luck. I assume it is a different set of instructions that would have to be sent rather then a simple repeat. So it is probably something the FLIRC guys would have to add. But if you do have any luck please let us know. Ernie
  2. HI Guys. Any progress on this? I would really like to use the new Fire device with it.
  3. I am also experiencing this with the 2023 FireTV Max "Gen 2". I have the Gen 1 and it works flawlessly with it. Seems to be certain screens that do it. The easiest example is the password screen prompt. If you have your FTV's parental controls turned on, it will prompt for a pin when you go into something like notifications - Main Screen Setup (cog wheel all the way to the right) -> Notifications. Navigating to the works fine including using the ok/select button to enter Notification. It then shows the "Enter Prime Video PIN" screen with the option to enter 1 (up), 2 (right), 3 (down), 4 (left) and 0 (ok/select). All work except the ok/select button. I can do more testing if needed. Ernie
  4. This is interesting. I did not know there was a cli tool. So you are able to program all of the fire tv remote buttons to the FLIRC? Could you provide more details on how you did it? I tried reading more about the tool but the only link I could find was one about the record_api command the only function not available in the GUI and they have NO intention of documenting it beyond flirc_util.exe help record_api :/
  5. I know this is old but figured I would mention my experience. I saw the same error on my MX-990. Turns out it has something to do with the choice of IR Codes. When I first tried, I picked a random "DVR" type device in the IR Database of the URC software. It wold take it but log the error. But when I tried to reprogram the same key with the same code, it did NOT give that "Already Exists" warning from the FLIRC software. And when I tried to put it into the FireTV, it did not work. I then tried something more "traditional", namely the Panasonic TV Code 3 set and worked perfectly. No log error, it did give the warning if I tried to use the same IR code in the FLIRC software, and the FireTV responded perfectly. So not all codes are created equal it seems. Ernie
  6. Its been a while but I think I used a panasonic TV code. If you have a programmable remote, just use any one programmed in the database to set the FLIRC controls. Should be that simple.
  7. Got it working! Using these: Trendnet USB Ethernet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFJ0RKE/ GZZ USB C Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GQ9GR41/ Tivo will not accept USB C Power Delivery from the Hub so I still have to use Micro USB. But the Flirc works great. I think my problem before was that I was using some random AUX IR Codes in my remotes database. I did not realize the Flirc is only compatible with certain IR. So, once I switched to something more standard, Panasonic TV Codes in my case, everything worked great! Ernie
  8. Hi all. Just wanted to give back a little. I am testing out my new Google TV Chromecast: https://store.google.com/product/chromecast_google_tv I can confirm that it actually works PERFECTLY with the flirc! I am running with one of these USB C dongles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8Z54M8/ That model isnt available anymore but I am sure it would work with most any other similar dongle. The important thing is that it has the power delivery (PD) port. You are going to want a really good power supply that is rated for high-amps, like the ones meant for the Raspberry Pi 4 as using the included one or a generic one you might having lying around did not work (the device boots to a power error screen): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TYQRXTK I have the power supply plugged into the USB C PD port in the dongle, the flirc in one of the usb ports and an Ethernet cable so I can turn off wifi on the CC. I then plug the output into the CC. All is good. For programming, I am running a URC MX-980 remote and use a generic set of IR codes in its database. I programmed the "NVIDIA Shield" buttons which gets me all of the nav control of the included CC remote including u/d/l/r/back/home. I also programmed the "Full Keyboard" which also works well. And "Media Keys" also works so you get play/ff/rw/skip+/skip- which are not on the included remote. I think I found my go-to streaming device! Ernie
  9. I would like to know as well. The Tivo 4k is an amazing device. I tried but it seemed only the up/down/left/right buttons worked.
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