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jason

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Everything posted by jason

  1. Only if the button you are using is recorded as a long press. Otherwise, because Kodi also supports long press, you can try increasing their long press hold time requirement.
  2. Unfortunately no, as it's one of the fundamental pieces of intellectual property that defines the device and it's great sensitivity across environments.
  3. This is doable. It's on my todo list to implement yawor's request this week.
  4. Someone mentioned the same problem and we couldn't figure it out. Finally, they mentioned turning of ADB debugging in settings which fixed it. Ironically, none of flirc functionality should work if ADB debugging is off, which is why I never suspected it. But maybe things are different on the later version of Amazons software. Can you let me know if that helps at all?
  5. so if you try and record buttons, it doesn't work?
  6. Download the latest GUI on the website, you should be prompted that there is an update. Macs are the only reliable machines at notifying of an available update. Let me know if that helps.
  7. Can you elaborate what this means: "It seems to be getting confused and not registering any keys properly... Other remotes that aren't connected to my TV work fine." Make sure you're on the latest firmware. We're on v4.4.2, and that has some fixes for sony remotes.
  8. Feature has been published: http://blog.flirc.tv/index.php/2017/12/25/flirc-just-got-a-shit-load-cooler/ No gui support, it's in the commandline app: https://flirc.gitbooks.io/flirc-instructions/content/command-line-interface-guide/macros.html I think I might be able to whip up some GUI support, it'll be crude, but should do the trick. Happy Holidays.
  9. Let me know if you have time for a team viewer session
  10. Hey Joe, yes, they are out of date. I migrated all my software builds to Travis. Before I was doing all my builds and releases from my personal computer, a disaster waiting to happen. Travis isn't set up to publish the SDK just yet, I'm going to get to that this next week.
  11. Have you tried a different remote? And all in the while, you're still able to use the GUI with your flirc? ** EDIT ** One more question, have you used the zadig tool before?
  12. Great, so glad it's working, very sorry for the initial inconvenience.
  13. I'm using a service called travis to do building and releasing for me. Kinda new and it looks like I had an issue with the last release. I posted a new version this afternoon, should fix it. You'll need to grab the latest from the downloads section on the website. Very sorry for the inconvenience. Please let me know if all is well, we're on version 3.5.2 now.
  14. I'm pushing a fix as we speak, should be up very shortly, let me know how it goes.
  15. An update is coming today, please give it as hot and let me know.
  16. I haven't put together a blog post in a while. But will do so soon. https://flirc.tv/status_board I'm trying to be as open as possible with what I'm working on. I've started both long presses and macros. I hope to have a release before the end of the year.
  17. I'm a bit late to this one. A user pointed me to here. This is really really concerning. Should a user come across this, please let me know, as this is definitely preventable if not a simple software bug.
  18. Yes, we're very interested in seeing this. If we could trouble you to follow up with a log, we'd be extremely grateful. Thanks for the help and the follow-up.
  19. I think I can push a fix out this week. Hang in there.
  20. Can you fire up the GUI, go to device log, enable ir debugging, and press and hold the button down in question? Save and post that text file here.
  21. Can you press a couple more buttons, hold them down each time.
  22. Okay, I have a fix in place, I can't post a firmware image here as it includes a lot of functionality that wont work with the current GUI. So hang tight, I'll push an update early next week.
  23. No, it shouldn't be. Mine is behind my tv inbetween my wall and TV, doesn't skip a beat. Any chance you can show a picture of the setup? Perhaps your TV is causing some interference, is it in front of the TV Screen, or behind?
  24. I'm fine with you doing this. The only thing that could go wrong, is that you lift the solder pads off the PCB, which is very likely if something is going to be hanging off the pcb. Don't worry about the warranty, it's just me to say so, so unless the board is physically damaged, it's not a big deal. The board is made to be mounted into a case, I would think it would be better to modify your case to be compatible. It's just a few holes and you can use the board as a template. Just drill three holes and call it a day. Here is the part I use: TSOP77338TR (you can figure out which pads are what based on the parts datasheet). The part you chose will work. The only thing is that if you don't solder those parts leads directly to the PCB, and you use extension wires, you're asking for frustration. Any kind of wires need to be thick enough to support the current over the length of it, plus, if they aren't shielded, and you stick them in a computer case, there are going to be all sorts of random noise. You could definitely damage the PCB if those leds touch and there isn''t good USB isolation. Let us know how it goes. Hacking is always welcome. That's how flirc started in the first place.
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