Jump to content
Flirc Forums

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/14/2021 in Posts

  1. Pre-ordered mine, looking forward to it. I've used the FLIRC for years now but I've been on a constant search for the perfect remote to use, there always seems to be something missing. Hopefully this one does the trick. Curious, is the remote smooth or textured, or grippy? Or something else? I have sensory OCD issues and I find myself rubbing the plastics. On most of my other remotes I've tried, I either pick up a silicone textured case, or use calm strips on the back of them so I have something I can touch without wearing it out.
    2 points
  2. I whipped up a quick C program to do this for my setup. It's probably a good starting point for the use cases listed here. https://github.com/vincebusam/flirc_retransmit
    1 point
  3. I know support for IR transmission is currently quite limited, but it'd be quite useful if you could 'learn' a button from a remote, and then retransmit that when a different button is pressed. The specific use case is to have one remote with all media buttons mapped for kodi, which obviously currently possible. What's missing is the ability to map the power button on the remote to an arbitrary IR transmit sequence on the Flirc dongle - this would allow it to be mapped to the IR sequence of the TV remote, doing away with the need for two remotes. An additional case would be to make it so you could make the volume buttons control the AV reviewer, not the instance of kodi. This could work well with the "long keypress" feature, so a normal press on the power/volume will be blasted to the TV/AV receiver, whereas a long press could be mapped to kodi.
    1 point
  4. The idea is for the Skip to support any possible command supported by the receiver. If the receiver, in this case, is a USB Flirc, then every command from the Flirc should be drag and droppable onto the Skip, including a full keyboard. At that point, the limiting factor is just the number of buttons on the Skip itself, which obviously isn't 104/5. If your goal is for the Skip to instead support LIRC inputs, well, there's a reason the company is called FLIRC.
    1 point
  5. Quick video of the Skip 1s and the Skip App which sets it up.
    1 point
  6. It's smooth. I'd guess calm strips on the back would be the way to go.
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. I whipped up a very crude implementation of this. It's online if it'll help somebody else get it working for them. https://github.com/vincebusam/flirc_retransmit
    1 point
  9. I am also intreasted to know how i can do this.
    1 point
  10. I have been focusing all my efforts on our new remote. Everything took a back seat, including the website. When you have so few resources, it was hard to justify so much effort on a new streacom, when so little sold, especially with the component shortage.
    1 point
  11. Hello, it seems the problem was not the TV itself. I have a new Soundbar, and now it does not happen anymore. So the problem was the input change of the Samsung HW-K450 Soundbar. Regards, Andreas
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. Hi there I have the same behaviour with a panasonic vieja TV. Five month ago, i tried to setup FLIRC for my HTPC with Logitech Harmony Hub. I gave up after some crazy sessions trying to configure the device. Today i try to setup Flirc for Libreelec on PI4, same behaviour. The setup was impossible because of ghost events. FLIRC debug IR mode receive tons of signals. I was becoming mad when i search for the device responsible of it, i finally try setup on laptop and not on HTPC and when i turned off my TV there was no more ghost IR signal received. The odd thing is when there's no direct path between TV and FLIRC, it reflects on glass (windows, small table with glass on it, mirrors). @Polarfox when Jason talk about backlight i think it's not light behind TV but a technique where a light straighten image behind front screen (so a light send towards you). I will make setup with tv off and try to use FLIRC with TV on. Then if FLIRC don't work correctly trying to put it in an opaque pipe to see if i can get it better. Best regards PS : TV model used is TX-P50VT30E EDIT: I just tried what i suggest above : FLIRC Setup : OK with the pipe and TV ON FLIRC Use with nothing : Fail, flirc unusable, 1 of 10 try on the same command is caught by the FLIRC, 0 received for some other commands. FLIRC Use with a long pipe and a cover : OK, works perfectly even if remote is not exactly aiming directly into the tube So i will think of smaller pipe to see if i can get it work. @jason do you think of a way to ignore ghost events ? Is it possible to decrease FLIRC sensibility ? if not possible actually can it be a firmware improvment ? Best regards
    1 point
  14. I just got a Flirc USB (new stainless steel version) and I would like to use it to control VLC Media Player on Windows 10. I’m using the “full keyboard” controller in the Flirc GUI. On USB keyboards, the keys on the numeric keypad (numbers, arithmetic symbols) send different codes than the same keys on the main keyboard. In VLC media player, pressing the + key on the keyboard’s numeric keypad speeds up playback. However, the Flirc GUI “full keyboard” controller does not include a numeric keypad, so I was wondering if there is any way to have Flirc send the codes for the numeric keypad keys.
    1 point
  15. Will this feature be coming to Flirc any time soon? I have just purchased Flirc V2 with this feature in mind. I currently cant control TV volume with my Apple volume and would love to be able to do this.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...